Although the many types and colors available in dock lines may seem to complicate a simple decision, the choice is still straightforward.

MATERIAL?
Nylon. This strong, durable synthetic is ideally suited to dock lines. Premium lines have a five-tuck splice, and the bitter end is whipped. Its high stretch, low cost, and soft texture make nylon the best choice.

CONSTRUCTION?

Laid or braid. Laid line is composed of three twisted strands, a design which has withstood the test of time. Although it can kink by nature, making it awkward to coil, three-strand twisted line is very strong, resistant to abrasion, and offers good value for money. Braided line is composed of many small strands, making it extremely strong and flexible. It runs smoothly, will not kink or rotate, and is easy on the hands. These small strands wear evenly, making braided line extremely resistant to chafe.

PRE-SPLICED?

Factory-spliced eyes make sense. The splice, formed by interweaving parts of the rope, creates a permanent eye while sacrificing little of the line's inherent strength. It cannot "undo" as can knots used to form the eye. You could splice the line yourself. For laid line, splicing is simple, but braid requires a special fid and some practice.

HOW BIG?

Boats under 20' generally use 3/8" line; 20-30' boats, 1/2" line; 30-40' boats, 5/8"; and boats over 40', 3/4". If your boat's heavier than average, you may want to choose the next larger size.

HOW LONG?

Dock lines should equal two-thirds of your boat's overall length. Spring lines should be slightly longer, approximately the same length as your boat.

HOW MANY?

Unless your boat is unusually heavy or subjected to severe conditions, a bow line, stern line and two spring lines generally suffice. Spring lines keep the boat snugly near the dock by preventing it from moving fore or aft, while allowing for the rise and fall of the tide. Of course, if your permanent slip has outboard pilings as well, you'll need an additional bow and stern line.

HOW TO USE THEM?

If you are off the boat much of the time, lines should be longer to allow for high water from storms and tides. Short lines are a prime cause of damage. Also, put the eye end of your dock lines around the cleat, bitt, etc. aboard, so you can adjust lines easily from the dock. Conversely, if you're a transient and spend most of your time aboard, put the eye around the fitting or piling ashore and adjust from the boat.

HOW TO CARE FOR THEM?

Chafe is the nemesis of good lines. Although inevitable, it's not uncontrollable. In a permanent docking arrangement, the chafe problem is most chronic. First, chafe-proof your boat as you would childproof your home. With a critical eye, examine chocks, cleats, bitts, posts, and other hardware for rough edges. Next, consider how you lead the lines, being careful to avoid acute angle changes, which present opportunities for abrasion. Last, get defensive. Chafe protection can range from special tape wrapped around the line at the point of contact to lengths of split garden hose or rubber chafe guards attached to the line where it passes through the chocks. On the dock, eye splices with thimbles are a great chafe defense mechanism. If you tie up to a cleat, attach the eye to a short length of chain which passes through the cleat's center. If you tie to a ring, attach it to the eye with a shackle.

Whether you're in your permanent slip, or just passing through, regularly check the condition of your lines for signs of wear. The investment in your boat depends on it.