With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's ground tackle system is no place to cut corners. Your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter. Boats with tall rigs or superstructures that present a lot of wind resistance will need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may anchor in open waterways as well as secluded coves.

Even if you're a confirmed fair weather boater, remember that the true test of your ground tackle will come in adverse conditions when you need it most. So, when talking anchors, bigger is better, and there's safety in numbers. No anchor can be all things to all bottoms, so have aboard at least two anchors of different designs to handle varying conditions. Finally, keep an anchor close at hand. There are stowage systems available for every type of anchor—brackets, bow rollers, chocks—don't let convenience outweigh common sense if it means your primary anchor has to be assembled before it can be deployed.

Which Anchor?

Fluke (Danforth-type) or Lightweight This popular burying anchor has wide, sharp flukes. Its excellent holding power-to-weight ratio means it can be lighter than other types of anchors used for the same conditions. High-tensile strength aluminum models are lighter still. Fluke-type anchors hold very well in soft bottoms like mud and sand, but tend to slide on grass and skip on rocks. The projecting flukes can be fouled by seaweed, shells, etc., preventing anchor set and are also rather unwieldy, although some models like the Fortress can be disassembled for easy stowage. The Fortress offers variable fluke angles that can be set for either mud or sand.

Plow An efficient anchor made of three steel-drop forgings, the plow features a single swivel at the shank base which prevents it from breaking out when the direction of pull changes. The plow is the best choice in grass and is also effective in sand and stiff mud. Its shape, however, is somewhat awkward and hard to stow, but can be handled easily with bow rollers. Delta anchors have a similar design, with the added benefit of single-piece construction. The Delta's more streamlined shape also affords deeper penetration and prevents rolling.

Bruce A relative newcomer featuring a proven three-claw scoop design. Effective on short scope, especially in mud and sand. It sets quickly and reliably in most conditions, including coral and rock. The stabilized, single-piece design rolls over rather than breaking out when the angle of pull shifts, and it proved to be the strongest of 14 anchors studied in BOAT/U.S. Safety Foundation tensile strength tests. Its one-piece construction is to handle, although it must usually be stowed on deck in rollers.

Ground Tackle Holding Requirements

Now that you have an idea about the type of anchors you need, check the chart to determine the holding power you require. Since modern anchors are so efficient, it's their holding power, not their weight, that proves their adequacy. In the chart below, find your boat's length or beam, whichever produces the greater load. For example, a houseboat would use the load for the next larger pewerboat size. Next, match it to your intended use for the anchor (lunch hook, working or storm anchor) to determine the minimum holding power you need. Cruising boats should consider carrying all three types of anchors.

Anchor Rode

Depending on the size and type of your boat, your choices are either an all-rope anchor rode, combination rope/chain, or all chain. Rope should be nylon, either three-strand or braided. Nylon rope is very elastic, making it a great shock absorber for sudden loads caused by wind and waves. Three-strand line should be medium lay, which has more twists per foot than soft lay. This is particularly important for use with a windlass, as the soft lay strands can untwist and separate, fouling the equipment. Three-strand rope can become awkward to handle, especially when hardened by salt saturation. An occasional bath in Downey or other fabric softener will do the rope a world of good.

Chain, used alone or in combination with rope, offers great benefits: it decreases the angle of pull on the anchor allowing it to set and hold more effectively, it's unaffected by chafe from rocks or sharp surfaces on the bottom, its weight forms a curve which absorbs shock loads in heavy weather, and, in the case of all-chain rode, requires much less scope—roughly half—for the same holding power as rope.

All chain is not created equal, however. Due to the inconsistent quality and often substandard galvanizing of many imported chains, we recommend that you avoid chain from foreign manufacturers. Proof coil is the most commonly used chain for anchor rodes. Made from low-carbon steel, it is identified by "G-3" imprinted on each link, and is adequate for most marine applications. BBB chain is slightly stronger than proof-coil, and has short links allowing a snug fit into windlass gypsies. BBB is also preferred by many cruisers using all-chain rode. Hi-test chain is made from higher carbon steel that has been surface-hardened. It has a higher strength-to-weight ratio than proof coil and is favored by the weight-conscious, as it can reduce the weight in the bow by up to 30% without sacrificing strength.

Setting the Anchor

For a firm set and a good night's sleep, follow these simple guidelines:

Choose your spot carefully, considering the shelter it offers, whether it's a well-holding bottom, and the proximity of other boats. Remember that boats of different sizes may swing to a different scope than yours, so give other boats as wide a berth as possible to avoid any wee-hours fending off sessions.

Approach your spot slowly, and put the boat in reverse when you're over the desired location. When the boat begins to gather sternway, lower the anchor to the bottom, and gradually pay out the rode. Take a turn around the bitt, snugging up the line and causing the anchor to "bite." Then pay out the rest of rode to the appropriate scope. Finally, check the set of the anchor by one of these methods. Using a buoyed trip line, reverse slowly and note if the buoy bobs up and down in one spot (you're OK), or is being pulled backwards with you (you're not OK). Another method is to choose two objects abeam which form a range, and check your position periodically in relation to them. Any change in their bearings means you'd better try again.

Determining Scope

The amount of anchor rode paid out depends on the type of rode you're using and the weather and bottom conditions. Scope is the ratio of rode paid out to the depth of the water. The proper scope for all-rope rode in average conditions is between 7:1 or 8:1; as noted before, you can be comfortable with a mere 3:1 or 4:1 if you're using all-chain rode. The key is to keep the angle of pull as close to horizontal as possible. Heavy weather or adverse anchoring conditions demand longer scope; however, keep in mind how you'll swing in relation to your neighbors.

Retrieving the Anchor

Break out your anchor by powering up to it slowly (with your engine, not your windlass), taking in the rode as you go. Once over top of the anchor, you should be able to lift it up vertically. If it resists, snub the rode around the bitt and power forward slowly, taking care not to carve up your topsides. A handy device is an anchor retrieval system, which uses a buoy attached to the rode to help break the anchor free.

Whatever system you choose, remember that your boat's ground tackle system is also its greatest safety feature. Buy the best you can, and check the gear often for signs of chafe and wear. With so much at stake, don't let the anchor and chain be your system's weak link.